New "Bouche" to Consider...

just a few "bites" of intel of what we have been playing with over the last month. No photos mind you, but use your imagination and explore what you conjure up in your mind. Cook with your heart, soothe your soul, push the boundaries and have fun...

yuzu "cured" alaskan halibut with grapefruit

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prosciutto and sheep's cheese stuffed dried apricot lollipop

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roulade of guinea fowl, pears, mustard and pistachios

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sake steamed snapper, soba noodles, gingered marinated lobster, dashi

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plum ice, hot spicy milk froth

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nebbiolo salt

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cabernet grape jam

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truffled baby lima bean "cappuccino"

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shiso pickled myoga

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fried egg sandwich with pork belly, quail egg, basil and tomato gel

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beet marshmallows

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sweetbreads, soba noodle "risotto", romanesco, truffles

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The Beast in Action...

It seems like a distant memory. A long forgotten occurrence of the ritualistic experience spent cooking before the flame. A moment lost in time. Where does it go? Can we ever get it back? Maybe when we are laid to rest, but that remains to be seen. For now, I offer you a glimpse of the hours savored in front of the fire as we cooked the multitude of ingredients over the roaring beast of one of natures primal elements. It was yet another great experience in this wonderful career. One that does not come around every day or any place mind you. I am only too fortunate to have at my disposal and arsenal, a fireplace that one could park a SUV in. A vessel to serve as a breeding ground for severe and intense heat in which to singe the flesh of the beast that lay before us. Simple...Pure...Raw. Shit, let me just get on with it already! I apologize for the lack of professional photography and the less-than-adequate photos as we only had a cell phone at hand. My bad. At least one can get the gist of what took place. As one reader wrote...Take Hold of the Flame!

wrestling with the beast...

lobster a'la broche...

fire roasted baby clams...

clam, potato, chorizo, chili amuse...


staging of the meal...

pork belly cooked in the embers...

scallops a'la plancha...

spit roasted monkfish...

scallops and pork belly...

fire roasted foie gras and peaches...

monkfish, lentils, lamb tongue...

plating of the veal rack...

chocolate pave, slow roasted apples, praline ice cream...

The Burning Beast...

This long overdue and much needed post is about a wonderful and amazing dinner we cooked a week or so ago. It is one that I have done a handful of times in length and detail whereas every dish is cooked right over a raging and rip-roaring fire. Keepers of the flame we are! It is about 5-7 or more courses of awesome tasting and impeccably fresh ingredients cooked in a variety of ways to best showcase them as well as the magnitude of options of the fire. Here is how it played out...We started with them with an amuse of Spit Roasted Maine Lobster, skewered live and cooked over the flame. We basted with butter and shallots while it cooked. It was served with a small stew of baby Heirloom Tomatoes, Fire Roasted Mexican Chorizo, and Basil, and a Baby Clam-Potato Parisienne Skewer. Simply delish! Next was a Diver Sea Scallop dish cooked "a'la Plancha". We set up a plancha grill over a couple bricks that we made into a oven where we stacked with live coals to fuel the heat for the grill. Hot as hell is what that was and all the better for it! The scallops were flanked by a fire roasted slab of 24-hour Berkshire Pork Belly that was cooked first sous vide for 24 hours until tender, then placed into a pan with pork fat and shoved under the burning logs into the coals to roast and sear. The fat under the skin-side became crisp as a nice creme brulee from the intense heat. It cracked when I sliced it which was freakin awesome. We added a Potato-Apple Pancake, Fennel Jam, House Made Rhubarb Conserve "Vinaigrette" and Micro Greens. This dish was very tasty proof that simplicity can be over the top indulgence! After this dish, came a "piece de resistance"...our "Kiln Baked" Foie Gras, cooked in true, whole lobe form under the beast itself. Spice rubbed with Ras el Hanout and nesting on a bed of Apples, Onions and Thyme, it was an inspiring site that almost brings tears to your eyes. We let this rest after roasting for several minutes before slicing rather large "Flinstone" sized portions to our guests. The ladies weren't too big of fans of this but oh well. That is how we roll. We served it with charred Peaches, Marcona Almond "Crumble", Wild Huckleberry "Chimichurri", Cacao Nibs, Fleur de Sel and Gingerbread Streusel. Ok...onward.....Atlantic Monkfish "a'la Broche", whole marinated loins placed onto the spit and roasted side-by-side to the burning logs and embers. Basted with Olive Oil and Thyme, we let this cook for about 20 minutes before slicing nice pieces that rest on top of a savory early Autumn ragout of Cider Cooked Green Lentils, Chanterelles, Corn, and Baby Lamb's Tongue, cooked sous vide until tender. A sauce of Roasted Garlic, Smoked Tomato and dried Black Olives infused into a Poultry Jus and Micro Celery put blissful closure to this course. As a refresher, or Bouchee Revigorant as I now pen the verbiage intermezzo, was Lavender Compressed Cantaloupe dusted with a fine smathering of Grains of Paradise, an Italian Plum Soda, and a lollipop of Frozen Yogurt with Hibicus and Fennel Pollen done a'la anti-griddle! For the savory main course, we opted for a nice silky marinated Veal Rack with roasted Fingerling Potatoes, Lobster Mushrooms, a creamy and heady Artichoke "Pudding" adorned with Onion Puree, Garlic Puree, Goat Cheese and Pine Nuts. A drizzle of fresh Basil Pesto and an intoxicating Syrah-Juniper Sauce encompassed the dish. For sweets...we had put together a "Pave" of Chocolate~ a base of Grahjam Cracker Shortbread Cookie, then a Dark Chocolate Flourless layer, and then a Praline-Jivara Lactee Layer for the final essence of Chocolate. Add a sprinkling of Hazelnuts, chopped Hazelnut Macaroons, and Blackberry Coulis and you have a making for a nice dessert. But wait...what came from the fire you ask? Of course, the skillet-roasted Washington Akane and Fuji Apples tossed with Brown Sugar, Butter and Cinnamon, cooked to a gentle caramel then poured gracefully over the pave. For fun, we incorporated a smooth Praline Ice Cream which sat atop a Hazelnut Financier. To end this meal in typical "chef's table" style, which is what the fireside feast began as, we presented the now much-satiated guests with Salted Caramels and Pistachio-Candied Bacon and Mascarpone Macaroon Sandwiches. It was a heart-felt meal cooked with passion, served in comfort for a wonderful start and pilgrimage into the season. To my wonderful readers and passionate craftspeople the world over who read my humble and less-than-glamorous blog, I thank you for your patience in this draught of intel.

sorry, pictures are forthcoming....

Missing in Action...

Well, not entirely. Just been busy as hell. Work, play, play, work...life. Food is moving along and forward. Hope to have some new thoughts, photos, ideas and perspectives for you shortly. In the meantime...keep cooking!

Top Chef in the House...

Wow...this week has proved to be simply wicked good! Food, many chef's tables, cool thoughts and a surprise special guest...last season's Top Chef Winner; Stephanie Izard! What started out as a normal Monday morning...bringing my son to camp, go to the post office, bank or some damn thing like that, ended up being totally awesome. It began with some uber loud music in the car...Godsmack...the faceless cd to be more exact. I love it all. It gets me pumped. It set's the tone and the mood for the day to follow. Exciting food, lot's of energy etc. You get the idea. Then, I get this call that Stephanie is going to be a guest at the chef's table. So, what do I do? DO I freak? Panic? Freak out? Hell no...I head directly for my great friends at Mutual Fish Company for some cool ingredients. Harry and Kevin and all the team there always take care of me. They are the best! The fresh daurade looks cool. I'll take it. Oh, there's some nice looking branzino. Ok, got it. Scallops...for sure. And...Oh My God...look at the live local Spot Prawns! The are the shit. Grab me some. Off to the club. As I am ordering some local chanterelles on my cell as I pull up, I already have a plethora of ideas. Here is what was planned and went down from about 330pm on...the mood was calm. The guests were scheduled in around 7pm. Kitchen team buzzing but quiet. No worries, we cook like this whether we have chef's in or our normal guests...everyone is important! The guests arrive with another local hero...Charles Smith, a wine producer for K Vintners in Walla Walla. Crazy hair and wild dude. Several other foodies who are anonymous for various reasons. Cool group. They are somewhat quiet and composed and into their own vibe at the moment. That will change. Hard to read actually. Not sure if everyone even knew what to expect. Did I? If it is one thing I do know...is that I am going to cook with our team and do it as best as we can with lot's of passion and love for the craft and to inspire others. Hopefully this was accomplished. The menu played out as this...

~snack #1~

House Cured Salumi, Truffled Apricot Conserve, Mostarda

~snack #2~

Frozen Foie Gras Lollipop, Caramel, Sea Salt

~amuse #1~

Chilled Santa Clause Melon "Boisson", Minted Creme Fraiche

~amuse #2~

Maine Lobster Salad, Avocado, Mango, American Sturgeon Caviar

Yuzu-Champagne Sabayon

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"Crudo" of Alaskan Halibut

Peach Relish, Togarashi, Heirloom Tomato-Opal Basil Salad

Tomato "Toast", Blood Orange Olive Oil

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Live Local Spot Prawns

Grilled with House Cured Bacon, Corn, Corn Nage, Shiitake Chips

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Honey Bunches of Oats Crusted Foie Gras

Hazelnuts, Cacao Nibs, Apricots, Late Harvest Zinfandel Gastric

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Frozen Yogurt-Fennel Pollen Lozenge, Elderflower Infusion

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Pan Roasted Daurade

Fingerling Potatoes, Chorizo, Baby Clams, Olive Dust, Smoked Paprika

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Seared Scallop & Foie Gras "Martini"

Potato Mousseline, 30 year Old Balsamic Condiment, Foie Gras Nage

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Compressed Cucumber, Macerated Melon, Grains of Paradise, Cucumber Sorbet

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Spice Crusted Squab Breast

Gingerbread Pancake, Compressed Cherries, Farmer's Onions

Lobster Mushrooms, "Claudio Corallo 80%" Sauce

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Syrah Braised Painted Hills Beef Short Rib

Anson Mills Grits, Artichokes "Sous Vide", Grain Mustard Cuisson

&

Oregon Lamb Tenderloin "Sous Vide"

Cepe Seared with Sweetbreads, Chanterelles, Potato Gnocchi, Black Peppercorn Jus

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"Street Food"

36 Hour Brisket, Spice Rubbed, Spicy Buttermilk "O-Rings"

Chimichurri, Chipotle Aioli, Smoked Salt

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Lemon Verbena Shake and Lollipop

Olive Oil Sponge, Strawberries, Mosto Cotto

Valrhona Manjari, Peaches, Lavender Ice Cream

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Salted Caramels, Blackberry Pates de Fruits, Bacon-Mascarpone-Macaroon Sandwiches

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Spiced Bittersweet Chocolates

A Vintimate Affair...

Our ultimate "som" and wine guy; Chris came up with this cool concept to run a series of wine and food soires in the dining room a few weeks ago to feature some very unique tastes and pairings of food and grape. It is an opportunity for him and I to showcase what we do best and to provide for a more intimate setting of about 10-12 guests all revolving around this great marriage...enter Vintimate. The first was labeled as Beef & Bordeaux, second was Salmon & Pinot and this last one was Muscovy & Merlot. The worst is that I did not have my camera during the first two dinners. For the record, they all rocked! The guests loved the setting...small, intimate, informative, exciting, excellent tasting and creative on many fronts. Large format wine dinners can be fun, and usually are, but sometimes, something special gets lost when doing large numbers. For me, the food rarely tends to suffer, as I learned long ago from a quote from Daniel Boulud...whether the meal is for 10 or 10,000, just plan accordingly, have the tools and team to do it and make it awesome. That's my focus and I'm stickin' to it. But, in the end, mainly for the guests, it is just not as sexy as a small table of close friends or family to savor over an excellently crafted work of art and fine bottles of vino. The idea is that during the dinner, he will sit with the group and talk about the wine itself, the pairings, the food and why the two pair up really well in a great marriage of taste and texture. It allows the guests to learn more about food and wine pairings without the formality of a large format dinner or the sterility of a class room-style gathering. The creation of the menu begins as simply the heading and I run with it. I am sure that at times it drives him crazy(in a good way) cause my food is not always the easiest to pair wines to. Hopefully he and his team enjoy the challenge. Here is the menu and photos below for your own enjoyment.

organic baby carrot sorbet, mango, toasted coconut, carrot oil
(amuse)

seared diver scallop "martini"
peas, corn, house cured bacon, heirloom garlic-thyme emulsion,

caramelized garlic "twist"

spice crusted Muscovy duck breast, gingerbread pancake, chanterelles
caramelized fennel "sous vide", compressed cherries, oregano blossoms
"claudio corallo" sauce

tuma trifulera "brulee", pluots, hazelnuts, shiitake chips, truffled kettle corn
truffle-late harvest zinfandel vinaigrette

slow roasted heirloom tomatoes, basted in their own caramel & vanilla
lavender ice cream, olive oil sponge, raspberries, bacon praline, basil seeds, lav tuile

tomatoes being slow roasted and basted
with vanilla, bay, black pepper, brown sugar, honey and tomato water

Chef's Table Shots...

from tonight...
wild striped bass "chop", fingerling potatoes sous vide, spanish chorizo
charred baby octopus, green olive vierge

from monday...
grilled block island swordfish, farmer's squash, chorizo, tomato sofrito
marjoram blossoms, crispy shallots, jus de poisson

Over the last several nights, we have had a couple chef's tables that warrant some air time. Rather than post them in a singular fashion, and all in and of themselves, I am combining them as to show more of the transformation of thought as the week goes onward. For better or worse, it moves forward. There is no stopping the progression and motion of the food and the kitchen. The life takes on a form of it's own. When energy and a positive attitude are high, we excel. When we are moody, tense, or emotionally spent, the food suffers. There is no way around that. One can not be on top of their game if they are fatigued or not in the right mind. Try it...you'll see. Anyway, we felt good about the flavors and dishes presented within. Fun flavors, fun folks, fun times. Summer rocks...hope you can enjoy the passion as we do...

Monday's Table...

maine lobster "brulee" with citrus dressing, melon-heart of palm salad

honeydew melon "boisson", yogurt-elderflower frozen lollipop

fresh hand-cut pasta "threads", heirloom tomato, basil, dungeness crab

tomato water "vinaigrette"

honey bunches of oats crusted foie gras & scallop

hazelnuts, cacao nibs, pickled red onions, plums

~bouche revigorant~

mango relish, organic carrot sorbet, toasted coconut

slow roasted muscovy duck breast, peas, corn, asparagus, chanterelles

sweet corn emulsion, balsamic infusion

pan roasted loin of lamb, potato gnocchi, caramelized fennel sous vide

chianti jam, bittersweet chocolate essence

Tonight's Table...

spicy buttermilk dipped portuguese sardines

fennel-orange salad, chili aioli, fennel pollen, blood orange dressing

honey bunches of oats crusted foie gras, diver scallop, sauteed pluot

late harvest zinfandel vinegar gastric

spice crusted muscovy duck, gingerbread pancake, chanterelles, carrots

caramelized fennel, elderflower compressed cherries, oregano blossoms

"claudio corallo" sauce

A Tribute to the Master...

In honor of "le Maitre de la Cuisine Francaise" himself...Georges Auguste Escoffier, we had the extremely unique opportunity to cook for his great grandson; Michel Escoffier, who himself runs the Escoffier Foundation and oversees the Escoffier Culinary Museum in the south of France on the Cotes d'Azur. Michel had agreed to come and spend an evening with us in Seattle, dubbed as a "conversation with" along with a dinner and exploration of his life as the great grandson of the late, great Auguste E., known mainly as "Escoffier". To most professional chef's and cooks, and even some serious food enthusiasts, Escoffier was the master. The God. The Shit! He defined, redefined, documented and formalized the entirety of classic French cooking and it's foundation of recipes as we know it today. He revolutionized the brigade system in a kitchen and developed the "ala carte" format we see today in almost any and every eatery the world over. Although today my dishes do not take on his style of classical recipe and ingredient usage, many techniques, fundamentals and skills are rooted from his teachings. I was taught in the art of Escoffier during each professional school I attended...South Seattle Community College, The California Culinary Academy and the Culinary Institute of America, and so much of his classic French structure is ingrained inside of me still, even though the food today is so much more evolved. I believe it is this classic structure that Auguste had documented and so cleverly orchestrated throughout his career and life that has provided me with the fabric in which my disciplined cooking is such a part of. When charged with the fortunateness of Michel's presence, hell, the closest living thing to the master, I wanted to pay homage and a tribute to him as well as show him who I was...aka "facon du chef". I think he(A.Escoffier) would have been proud, or at the very least...I hope.

~Amuse~

Boisson "St. Germaine" et Cuillere "Pastorelle"

chilled pea soup, a spoon of leek, mushroom and potato, pea tapioca

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Terrine de Fletan "Duglere"
Asperge "Polonaise", Celeriac et Endives, Vinaigrette "Dieppoise"

halibut and heirloom tomato terrine, asparagus with duck egg, brioche and parsley

celery root and belgian endive salad, mussel & shrimp dressing

white anchovy-black olive butter

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Selle d'Agneau a' la "Forestiere" Soubise d'Oignon, Fenouil "Sous Vide", Petit Navet "Glace"
et "Garniture Moderne"
loin of lamb(cooked sous vide), caramelized fennel sous vide, baby turnips glace
creamed cepes, chanterelles, morels, bacon, potatoes
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"Peche Melba"
peaches, raspberries, anise hyssop ice cream
in various forms and fashions...
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in closing, I wanted to again thank our great team of cooks and chefs,

for this dinner could not have been pulled off without their

extreme efforts, dedication and enthusiasm.

And to Jim for having my back during a tough and emotional period during my time in jury duty...

you guys rock!